The northern province of Jujuy is considered a key point of resistance in Argentina’s Independence. Now, the Wallabies head into the region ready for their own resistance as they look to quell one of the most hostile environments in World Rugby.
Estadio 23 de Agosto will host its third-ever Test on Sunday (AEST) and it’s second in just over two decades. Translating to ‘23rd August’, it signifies the date of the ‘Jujuy Exodus’, a mass forced displacement that helped turn the tide in the Argentina War of Independence against the Spanish in 1812.
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National law has recognised the region as Argentina's honorific capital on 23 August each year since 2002.
As locals marched through the city on Sunday, the Wallabies landed in the official capital, Buenos Aires, prepared for anything after past experiences.
The stadium, which is also nicknamed ‘La Tacita de Plata’ (the little silver cup), sits in the foreground of the Serranía de Hornocal mountains, with elevation topping out at just over 1,250 metres
It's just below South Africa’s famous Loftus Versfeld (1,350 m), with the banking of the stands and wire barriers leaving fans right on the edge of the action.
Wallabies coach Les Kiss is very familiar with what to expect, having gone undefeated against Los Pumas during his stint as Ireland assistant coach, including a 2014 sweep in Argentina.
“Each time I've been there with the Waratahs years ago and with the Irish national team, if you give the crowd something to go for, it's impressive,” he said.
“It feels like a Coliseum…air thick with confidence that comes from them playing well. I think they're the wonderful experiences that you get in this game. It's brilliant to experience it.
“Hopefully we can quell it, but I do think they're unbelievable games there. You might think you're on top of the game, but it changes like that and then the crowd changes like that and they lift another level. It's brilliant. They're a really hard proposition to play there, that's for sure.”
Past Wallabies sides have faced a unique challenge: lasers targeting goal-kickers.
Bernard Foley was infamously targeted in 2014 when a green laser shone straight into his eyes as he lined up a regulation kick, and Australia went on to lose 21-17.
Former Wallabies Kurtley Beale and Mike Harris were in the firing line two years earlier, and Argentine officials moved quickly to avoid similar incidents.
Flyhalf Ben Donaldson has experienced Argentina at its best throughout his career. He guided the Junior Wallabies to the U20 World Championship Final in 2019, returning to kick the winner for the Wallabies in 2024.
“It's obviously different, isn't it? You hear stories of lasers and people throwing stuff on the field and whatnot, but you just got to embrace whatever comes. It's going to be a pretty cool experience," he said.
“I've played in Argentina before and every stadium is quite compact, very hostile but it's an awesome experience, and the supporters are so passionate for their team, which is great to see.
“In terms of preparing for it, most of the preparation is already done. I'll do the preparation this week and when it comes to the game, everything should take care of itself, but at the same time embrace the experience, embrace the challenge. I think it should be pretty cool at the same time.”
With a bumper crowd likely for the fixture, Wallabies lock Lukhan Salakaia-Loto is ready for the hostility and the fired-up locals after a significant week.
“Going over to Argentina, the crowds are pretty ruthless. Nothing probably compares to it,” he reflected.
“You get the flames and all the lights and stuff that they've got going on and all their music, which is a cool experience. It can feel quite isolated out there when you're with the boys out on the field, but I can say that we've had some awesome results over there in the past.
“...You can't really dwell too much on it. It is what it is, and it'll happen. The boys that have played over there have got some experience and we know what to expect. For those who haven't, I'm sure they'll find out pretty quickly.”
